Art that hangs too high is one of the most common design mistakes we see. A few simple rules will make almost any room look more pulled together, whether you're hanging one large canvas or a whole gallery wall.
The 57-inch rule
Galleries and designers often hang art so the center of the piece sits about 57 inches from the floor, roughly average eye level. Some prefer 60 inches, especially in rooms with high ceilings. The key is the center of the art, not the top or the nail.
How to do the math
- Measure the height of the frame and divide by two.
- Measure from the top of the frame down to the taut wire or hanger.
- Nail height = 57 + (half the frame height) − (distance from top to hanger).
Example: a 30-inch-tall frame with the wire pulling 4 inches below the top. 57 + 15 − 4 = 68 inches to the hook.
Over furniture
When art hangs over a sofa, console or sideboard, the furniture becomes part of the composition. Leave about 6 to 10 inches between the top of the furniture and the bottom of the frame. The piece, or grouping, should usually be about two-thirds the width of the furniture below it.
Over a bed
Keep the bottom of the art roughly 8 to 12 inches above the headboard. Avoid heavy glass-fronted pieces over a bed unless they're hung with secure hardware, and consider lighter canvas instead.
Over a mantel
Over a fireplace, the mantel sets the baseline. Leave about 4 to 8 inches above the mantel shelf. If a TV is going there instead, see our article on mounting TVs on plaster, since many older fireplaces are brick under the plaster.
Staircases
On a stair wall, keep each piece's center about 57 to 60 inches above the stair tread directly below it, so the whole arrangement rises with the stairs. A laser line set to the stair angle makes this much easier.
Gallery walls
- Keep 2 to 3 inches between frames for a tight, modern look, or up to 4 inches for a looser grid.
- Treat the whole group as one piece and center it at about 57 inches.
- Lay frames out on the floor first, then trace them on kraft paper and tape the templates to the wall before you drill.
- Anchor the largest piece first and build out from it.
Rooms with high ceilings
In two-story rooms common in Potomac and McLean, you can raise art slightly or go larger, but keep it related to the furniture and people in the room rather than floating near the ceiling.
Choose the right hardware
- Light pieces on drywall: picture hooks rated for the weight.
- Heavy art and mirrors: anchor into studs, or use a French cleat for large, heavy items.
- Plaster walls: drill pilot holes instead of hammering, and use plaster-appropriate hooks or anchors. Many older DC homes have picture rails that let you hang art with no holes at all.
- Brick and concrete: masonry bits and anchors.
Always use two hooks for wider pieces so they stay level.
Hallways, entryways and small walls
In hallways, people view art while walking, often at closer range. Keep the 57-inch center, but pick pieces sized to the wall so they don't crowd door frames, and leave at least a few inches of clear wall on each side. In entryways, a mirror over a console works well hung 6 to 10 inches above the tabletop with its center close to eye level. On a narrow wall between two windows or doors, a single vertical piece or a short vertical stack often looks better than something wide.
Lighting and placement
Consider light before you drill. Direct afternoon sun can fade prints and watercolors over time, and glass-fronted frames opposite a window can catch glare. If a piece matters to you, choose a wall away from strong direct sun, or use UV-filtering glazing. Picture lights and adjustable ceiling spots can make a favorite piece the focal point of a room.
Want it hung perfectly?
We hang art, mirrors and gallery walls with lasers and the right hardware for every wall. See picture and art hanging, or local pages for Washington, DC and Bethesda. Text photos of your pieces and wall to (202) 438-6197.